As Filipinos, we are known for our hospitality. Those of us from Pampanga like to demonstrate this by overfeeding our guests with the best of our cooking. But somehow Kapampangans from the city of Angeles seem to go beyond just serving great food. This “brand” of hospitality does not go unnoticed by non-Pampangos, especially with the way public occasions are celebrated. From tables overflowing with food, the best china and linen, to a loud marching band in full regalia, it’s always a complete package. The goal – infamously regarded as Capampangan yabang – is to impress. If yabang means confidence in knowing you got what it takes and living up to expectations (instead of just vain, empty boasting), I see nothing wrong.

Prior to making Angeles City my home, I was a frequent visitor for many years — sometimes for work, for fun, and more often, to visit friends. When my best friend knew I was coming, she made it a point to prepare my favorite dish. With another friend, we would be driving around in his big white car with one question in mind: “What do you crave?” More often than not, this leads to a series of eating places in just one night, with a mini feast at every stop and take-home goodies to boot. And I was just one guest visiting on no special occasion. Imagine what it’s like to have close to 200 guests from all over the country coming to Angeles City, all at the same time, for one single event?

fried suman with mango mousse

Last month, I was invited by this same friend to the Fellowship Night of the Council of Hotel and Restaurant Educators of the Philippines (COHREP) held at the Angeles University Foundation. From February 3-5, Pampanga played host to the 19th national conference of COHREP, an organization of hospitality and tourism management educators. Held at the Holiday Inn, Clark in Angeles City, the three-day convention focused on the uniqueness of the Pinoy service culture as a brand of hospitality.

On the group’s first night in the country’s culinary capital, AUF hosted the event with such cosmopolitan panache, the kind that makes you burst with Kapampangan pride. Arriving at the school grounds with a bad case of taste fatigue for Filipino food, I had zero expectations. Instead, I witnessed a level of hospitality which I could only describe in these two words: Kapampangan BONGGA!

First, I was warmly welcomed by smiling students in smart business uniform. One of the girls cheerfully ushered me into the activity area which was transformed into a five-star dining hall under the cool night sky. Food was presented in a similar international fashion. The place served as the venue where COHREP national participants experienced the best of Capampangan hospitality and creativity.

turon with pastillas fondue

The long buffet spread highlighted classic and innovative Kapampangan cuisine such as Paksing Damonyus (a spicy vegetable relish cooked in vinegar), Asadong Dilang Baka With Castanas (Ox Tongue Stew With Chestnuts), Sisig Kapampangan, Fried Suman (Glutinous Rice) with Mango Mousse, Palitaw (Steamed Sticky Rice with coconut shreds) and Pastillas (Carabao Milk Candy), plus Turon (Banana Fritters) with Pastillas Fondue among others.

Just when I thought I had tasted the best of Kapampangan cuisine (which pretty much tastes the same and generally good), here comes the same dishes that I have known all my life (perhaps with the exception of a chestnut-laden lengua estofado) and they actually tasted far better than every Kapampangan dish that I have eaten. Is that even possible?

Not only did the food taste like it was cooked with love, but the way with which it was prepared suggested a high level of skill and expertise for Kapampangan cuisine. Perfectly seasoned and perfectly spiced, sisig did not need the sour calamansi to be enjoyed, with a little saltiness there, a bit of crunchy, charred bitterness here, and just the right amount of tenderness mixing into some chewy sizzling pork goodness.

Every mouthful of the ox tongue melted like a dream. The pork cracklings and chicharon bulaklak (deep-fried pork intestines) just had the right amount of salt, remained crisp even when cold and were gloriously not greasy. Guest participants eating buro (fermented rice and shrimp) for the first time savored spoonfuls of the (in)famous Kapampangan exotica as though it was dessert.

But what really excites me is the fact that we do have an abundance of local talent who are as good as Pampanga’s best known chefs, and could rival many of the country’s famous culinarians in the arena of Filipino cuisine.

The Kapampangan menu was put together by Angeles University Foundation’s leading chef instructors. (In photo L-R): Howard Dizon, Froilan Cruz, Harold van Aquino and Heinz Pelayo, all respected industry professionals from Angeles City.

As the guests sat down to a gastronomic feast, the AUF Concert Chorus dressed in colorful Filipiniana took the stage with a Tagalog classic medley of Hindi Kita Malimot, Buhat and Gaano Ko Ikaw Kamahal composed by Ernani Cuenco, Josefino Cenizal and Mike Velarde, Jr.

The crowd’s energy picked up as the AUF Dance Troupe joined the chorale in the folk songs Magtanim Ay Di Biro (a song depicting the reality of farm life) and Leron Leron Sinta (a funny story about young courtship). When the repertoire shifted to Englebert Humperdinck’s Quando, Quando, Quando, the guests started passing around a hat and filled it with money as a reward for the passionate young artists, a gesture of gratitude never before seen in previous performances.

Personally, I found it refreshing to see college kids singing 60’s and 70’s songs like The Last Waltz, There Goes My Everything, Am I Easy To Forget, The Way It Used To Be, A Man Without Love and Release Me. With their music reaching through the hearts of the many parents in the the audience, the AUF performing arts received a well-deserved standing ovation.

Meanwhile, my taste fatigue may not have healed completely, but the revitalizing experience gave me more to look forward to in my delicious hometown