Aubergine Encore: Quest For Barley-Green Pea Risotto

Thank God the sun has been steadily out. Although it will take time for life in this part of the world to go back to normal, I’m hoping that we’re slowly but surely on our way. Easier to write when worry-free, I’m back :)

Just four days after this event, I was back at Aubergine Restaurant Patisserie. A friend and I hadn’t seen in each other in a long time, we had to catch up over good food. Bored with her usual round of restos, she was looking for new dining places to go to as well as to take her clients. I sent her a list to choose from which spans her area of choice, Makati or The Fort. Fingers crossed she’d pick Aubergine, then I’d have a terrific reason to return soon for my latest food fantasy, barley-green pea risotto – a creamy vegetable variety that comes with perfectly grilled lobster, scallops, norwegian salmon and crisp asparagus spears in orange beurre blanc. The name of the dish intrigued her.

aubergine barley green pea risotto

And so there we were, but our excitement quickly wore off. The email that I sent to the chef (who made our Christmas turkey) was not read because he was on day off. But for my friend’s first-time visit, there were other things to try on the menu list.

aubergine risotto

To satisfy the risotto craving, we decided to sample one of the day’s specials, a steaming bowl of the usual arborio (?) rice showered with black truffle shavings and decorated with Aubergine’s signature milk foam. It had just the right creaminess and earthy taste. Our small appetites couldn’t finish the heavy portion though. Also, as a personal preference, I preferred the more soupy (yet with body) kind, such as the seafood risotto I sampled on my first visit in February 2008 (right photo) a few months after the restaurant first opened.

aubergine seabass

I had to recommend the grilled Chilean sea bass because my first taste was memorable — as soon as my tongue and palate closed in on the silky flesh, it vanished like magic. This time, our seabass was thicker and some parts slightly sinewy. Could it be because winter is (supposedly) the best season for this seabass when they are sold fresh and in abundance? Although this latest version still imparted the flavors of the sea, I missed the golden saffron hues from the former boullabaise broth (left photo).

Pardon the next pic. We were seated away from the windows and Aubergine’s relaxing dim lighting was a challenge for my little point-and-shoot, so this is the only one I got. Although it might look like one, this is not a miniature lasagna, ok? :D It’s with this quirky little appetizer that our weekday lunch redeemed itself.

aubergine appetizer duck

My lunchmate and I had limited time in between work and meetings. Rushing to fill each other in with how much we had missed, the story exchange was non-stop. Yet even with the incessant chatter, the nicely mouldy gratinated brie, the warm french duck confit and the cold, red beetroot, with its very subtle raspberry vinaigrette, would weave in and out of our consciousness, demanding our attention.

Unfortunately, just like many of my favorite foods, this one was scheduled to be taken out of the menu (the usual reason: high cost, slow moving, sigh, sigh, sigh…). The good news is (according to Hans Schallenberg who runs the place with long time friend and business partner Chef Norbert Gandler), like the green risotto above, I can call a few days in advance to make the request!

aubergine pretty little things

The little touches such as the delicate macarons de paris (the best I’ve tried next to Cioccolo’s), graceful pastries and eye-catching amuse bouche remain.

aubergine toilet

I still like Aubergine’s clean and well-lit bathroom in pearl mosaic and sparkling shades of sienna, maroon and of course, eggplant, as the restaurant name signifies.

aubergine roast duck and beef carpaccio

The verdict? My friend had soon gone back with more guests in tow, and this time she was luckier. She texted to report that she finally had the barley-green pea risotto and that she really enjoyed it. Maybe on my fourth visit, I’ll have the carpaccio of Austalian beef tenderloin and that other french duck confit as main course. Happy to see that they’re still on the menu!

This lunch bill comprised of appetizer, two main course, non-alcoholic beverage, dessert and coffee, cost approx PhP3000 for two (plus taxes and service charge). Staggering old and new world wine selection. Love the heavy flatware! Service is attentive and formal. Book in advance.

Aubergine Restaurant Patisserie
32nd and 5th Building
5th Avenue cor. 32nd Street
Fort Bonifacio 1634Taguig City, Philippines
Tel: +(63) (02) 856 9888

Related post:

C-Lium At Aubergine: 2- In-1 Delight

In the news:

More on Aubergine in the Philippine Daily Inquirer.
Aubergine makes it to Asia’s Top 20 2009-2010 Miele Guide.




4 Comments to “Aubergine Encore: Quest For Barley-Green Pea Risotto”

  1. Ruwenn said...
    October 18, 2009

    nagutom si ako. love it! and i like the bathroom photos too. R knows that everytime we get in a resto for the first time, Id’ go in the toilets and check it out hahaha. I actually took a photo of one of my favorites here in Sydney.Mahanap nga.

  2. me said...
    October 18, 2009

    ru, show me the restroom pic haha. syempre, clean CR = clean kitchen = clean, safe food, dibs? ;)

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